When I first started planning my summer, 2026 vacation, places like Paris or Rome weren’t big contenders. Instead, the checklist included long summer days, cooler temperatures than the “opening-an-oven” weather in AZ, new areas to explore, and ‘not very touristy’.
It had been several years since I’d visited Finland, having previously explored Helsinki and Lapland, but never ventured west toward Turku and the Åland Islands. It seemed like a great excuse to return to the “land of a thousand lakes” and enjoy about 18 hours of sun-up each day.
Joining me was Boomerang (my trusty koala touring companion), along with a newer member of the travel team, Anxious Duck. You might have read about him in this blog post. He was thrilled that Finland appears to have no shortage of ducks (and that quacking sounds the same in all languages).
As for me, I discovered something even better.
Finland doesn’t put on airs. It’s impressive in its own right, and so many little experiences and interactions added up to one big, happy impression.
Helsinki: history, waterfronts and a very memorable island
Helsinki felt calm and while there was no medieval old town, its 16th century origins added historic vibes to the cosmopolitan capital.
I visited Uspenski Cathedral, admired Finlandia Hall, passed Parliament, and spent plenty of time along the harbor enjoying the vibe.
And, of course, there was the shopping.
The Harrod’s of Finland is Stockmann, especially its flagship location on Aleksanterinkatu (built in the early 1900s). Even if you’re not spending money (I dare you to try), it’s fun to check out – from the food options, to the seemingly endless clothing and accessories brands, to their outlet, Stocklet (Stockmann merged with outlet – hahaha) located on the top floor.
Other stores of note include Marimekko and Moomin (from the children’s books) which both had large representation, a Björn Borg store (Swedish, of course), and a Finnish brand called Aarikka, known for handmade round wooden components. Locally crafted…and they had little duck sculptures.
If you only have time for a single side trip from central Helsinki, make it Suomenlinna Sea Fortress. You can buy a one-way ticket for the ferry near where it departs at Market Square, and purchase your return ticket while you’re on the island.
It’s part fortress, part neighborhood, part walking trail, part history lesson, and one of those places where you can happily spend several hours with no real agenda except wandering. Tip: Please wear good walking shoes, the uneven stone streets will be much more pleasant for your feet.
A couple other places I heard about, but didn’t get to:
- Oodi Library – this was mentioned by a Brazilian transplant and a fellow traveler from Atlanta as a must-see
- Helsinki Central Park – 10 sq. km. of natural forest, north of the city center
Programming note: If you’re staying at any Helsinki Airport hotels (perhaps when you arrive or the night before you leave), there is a full-scale grocery store and separate food court located on the Arrivals level – incredibly handy.
Turku: Finland’s “2nd” city
Definitely a change of pace, the Aura River winds through the center of town, offering a great walking route, thoughtful landscaping, and a relaxing feel.
The weekend I visited turned out to be the same timeframe as Ruisrock, Finland’s oldest rock festival. While thousands of music-cravers hopped on busses to the bands, I headed toward a new favorite discovery: The Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum.
This open-air museum survived the Great Fire of 1827, which destroyed much of Turku. Walking through the preserved wooden buildings felt like stepping back two hundred years. And while the collections were expertly curated, the best part was the educators working in various settings.
Instead of simply demonstrating old-timey tasks, many of the artisans happily explained them. I learned how bracelets were made, how fabric became clothing, why doorways were intentionally built low (to help keep heat inside), and that many of the tiny-looking beds actually extended at night.
When I later mentioned these conversations to someone at my hotel, she seemed surprised.
“You asked them questions? And…they responded?”
Whether it’s more Finnish to observe than inquire, I don’t know. But if you go, do engage with the employees. It turned what could have been a quick museum visit into a memorable afternoon.
Åland: Under the radar, worth the visit
If you aren’t familiar with Åland, you’re not alone. And, if your goal is crowds and nightlife, Åland probably isn’t your speed. But if you’re longing for quiet, charming and relaxed, it’s here in spades.
The autonomous islands belong to Finland, but most residents speak Swedish. They’re also demilitarized, giving the islands an interesting history.
Mariehamn (the capital) is wonderfully walkable. One minute you’re “downtown”, the next you’re along the harbor, then suddenly you’ve found a quiet beach, a walking path, or to my (and Anxious Duck’s delight) a pond full of cute, feathered residents.
The human residents were pretty special too. Two interactions come immediately to mind:
- One afternoon I wandered into a small souvenir shop looking for something that actually said “Åland.” I left with a tote bag…and a much larger chocolate collection after the employee patiently helped translate candy flavors, encouraged me to taste-test several I hadn’t tried, and sampled a few himself.
- I was given a suggestion for Pizza Diablo and ordered take away. A member of the wait staff overheard me and he came by to let me know they “love Americans”. He also handed me garlic sauce (for free) to try with my veggie pizza – it’s homemade and meant to be used for crust-dipping. Do stop by and try it.
Don’t skip the ship
One absolute recommendation is to take the “cruise-ferry” between Turku and Åland, at least one direction.
I booked a small private cabin (there are many price options, I went with an inexpensive one that still afforded a window), tossed the now-heavy luggage inside, and suddenly the trip itself became part of the vacation.
I relaxed in the room, wandered the different decks, browsed the enormous Duty Free, grabbed a quiet window seat upstairs (listening to a lounge singer belting out “Fly Me to the Moon” and “What a Wonderful World”) and spent several hours simply watching hundreds of islands drift past as we sailed through the archipelago.
Other memorable moments:
- Arriving at Helsinki airport (HEL) from a full day of travel, to have an immediate moose sighting (plush, and real-moose sized)
- A grocery cashier in Turku, on USA’s Independence Day, who noticed I was American and wished me a Happy Fourth of July.
- A young woman in Åland explaining that temperatures in the upper 60s were perfect and the locals wouldn’t want it any warmer (it was due to be 70 there in a few days – or whatever the Celsius equivalent is – and she was not excited). I don’t think they’d love Phoenix in the summer…
- Sampling blueberry juice on a Finnair flight – the drink’s become iconic thanks to the airline
- Ordering the whitefish with cauliflower puree, sour cream and lovage, a little skeptically (fish…with sour cream?), only to have it become one of my favorite meals of the trip.
- The yogurt. Seriously – thank you Finnish cows! If you see the Kalinka brand while you’re there, buy it. Tell them Jill sent you.
- Trying a Double Stuf Oreo and realizing it had all the appearance of an American Oreo with only 20% of the flavor
- Fazer chocolate, specifically Fazermint and the dark minis – I might’ve brought back more than the allotted ‘nothing to declare’ amount…
While I didn’t actually see all of the “thousand lakes,” the trip was still quite a success. I came home with great memories, enough chocolate to start a Fazer franchise in Scottsdale, a Björn Borg pullover, and two little wooden ducks (because separating them just seemed mean).
