With Phoenix’s forecast calling for “surface of the sun” temperatures, I decided my birthday weekend was the perfect excuse to head north again.
I booked another stay at the Sheridan House Inn B&B in Williams – a spot I’d previously written about and genuinely loved – but this time, I also wanted to explore a few new places and go a little deeper into my Grand Canyon wandering.
The excursion north was pleasant at first, with light traffic and surprisingly cheap gas at the Chino Valley Circle K… although apparently nobody there had ever learned gas pump etiquette. After listening to what felt like multiple people solving major life issues at the pumps (one man waxed poetic about the S&P 500 and the AI bubble), I eventually continued on my way.
Not long after, though, Beep (the Jeep) took a hit directly to the windshield. A sharp vertical crack appeared on the passenger side, looking painful but survivable. Arizona basically looked at the shiny new vehicle and said, “Cute. Here’s a rock.” Like all good road trip companions, he soldiered on.
When I arrived at the B&B, they let me know they’d upgraded my room, which was spacious and cozy, complete with a rain shower and the Inn’s famous homemade peanut butter cookies sitting innocently on the bed, blissfully unaware of their fate.
Friday morning, I went to Walnut Canyon National Monument, just outside Flagstaff.
The sign to enter the area is very clear. What’s less clear is that after passing it, you continue driving…and driving…and driving…before eventually reaching the actual gate entrance. Stay the course though – it exists.
Once inside (tip: if you have a National Park Pass, definitely bring it), there are two main hiking options. The Rim Trail is fairly flat and under a mile long. But for those still operating under a residual peanut butter cookie sugar-surge, there’s also the Island Trail: 273 stair steps winding through cliff dwellings and canyon walls.
There was a warning sign encouraging visitors to “consider their physical condition before hiking.” I thought about mine briefly…then started down anyway.
At first, my brain offered approximately twelve excellent reasons to turn around immediately.
Then, I overheard hikers ahead of me discussing a possible snake sighting lower on the trail – the information being passed upward from group to group like a game of telephone. Shockingly, by the time it reached me, the story had not escalated into “there’s a snake the size of a rhinoceros blocking the path,” which honestly felt restrained and maybe a little disappointing.
Despite the heat, the stairs, and the possibility of becoming a reptile snack, the hike was absolutely worth it. The cliff dwellings were fascinating and the scenery was incredible. Although, somewhere on the climb back up, while questioning every cardiovascular decision I’ve ever made, I briefly contemplated establishing permanent residency rather than finishing the ascension.
A few more agonizing, “why did I do this to myself?” minutes later, the top suddenly appeared.
Afterward, I decided to skip any additional hiking for the day and headed into downtown Flagstaff to wander.
Some places worth checking out if you’re in the area:
Once back in the central business district of Williams, I also popped into Copper Canyon Trading, a Route 66-style candy and gift shop carrying roughly 40 flavors of saltwater taffy. As a highly scientific experiment, I purchased single pieces of thirteen different flavors to determine a winner.
Saturday’s plan was Grand Canyon National Park.
I’ve now been several times, and every visit feels a little different. This time, I wanted to venture beyond my usual stops and finally explore the Red Route shuttle.
As I navigated north on State Route 64, I noticed the windshield crack was slowly continuing its migration, giving Beep a slightly battle-worn appearance.
When I drove through Tusayan, just south of the South Rim entrance, movement caught my eye across the road. At first glance, I thought I spied 3 wild horses, a second glance I took in their deer-shaped faces and long necks. Later confirmation suggested they were elk. Or “wapiti” if you prefer (fun party fact!).
Of course, I picked the slowest possible entrance gate line. The lane next to me moved steadily while mine sat frozen in place. Was every car in front of me telling the ranger their life story? Sharing recipes? Discussing the latest Netflix show? Eventually, I made it through.
Ironically, the delay worked in my favor because when I arrived at my preferred parking area near El Tovar, someone pulled out of the very first shaded spot just as I approached. One minute I was irritated by the slowness of other tourists. The next, I had the perfect parking space because of it.
After spending a little time near the rim, I boarded the Red Route shuttle aiming to hop off The Abyss overlook (yes, I wanted to say I stared into “the abyss”).
But just before reaching that stop, the bus driver mentioned that the walk between Mohave Point and the Abyss offered incredible rock formations and some of the earliest glimpses of the Colorado River. She also warned that the trail was uneven and not ideal for people afraid of heights.
What a difference a day makes. Just twenty-four hours earlier, I had been hesitating at the top of Walnut Canyon. Now my immediate reaction was basically: challenge accepted.
I de-bussed at Mohave Point, took in that magnificent view, and started walking.
The route turned out to be one of the highlights of the entire weekend. The landscape constantly shifted, the canyon opened wider in unexpected places, and eventually I found a quiet shaded area near the rim where I sat alone with snacks, a book, and one of the most incredible backdrops imaginable.
The Abyss itself was beautiful, but… the walk between the two stops was the real highlight.
I eventually continued on to Hermit’s Rest – home to scenic overlooks, a historic structure dating back to 1914, a gift shop and several squirrels who appeared deeply committed to theft-related activities.
Later, after taking the shuttle back toward the Village area, I was meandering to my car when I made one last detour toward the rim. Partly because I wanted a few more minutes with the view and partly because I had consumed enough water to fill a kiddie pool, so I determined that finding a loo was in order before the hour-plus drive.
That decision led to one of the coolest moments of the trip.
If I hadn’t stopped, if I’d walked directly back to Beep, I would have missed it completely.
A lone bighorn sheep standing quietly on an outcropping near the edge of the canyon.
No crowd. No dramatic soundtrack.
Just him.
Just me.
A peaceful, unexpected moment that felt incredibly special.
And, as if the canyon decided that wasn’t quite enough wildlife for one day, a deer appeared next to the road as I was leaving the parking area, happily chomping away on a shrub, not bothered by my photo shoot while it was mid-meal.
Back in Williams Saturday evening, I returned to Copper Canyon Trading where Friday’s “research project” had officially concluded with a clear winner. I left carrying a bag of the winning flavor – cherry (of course).
Sunday morning earned my vote for best breakfast of the trip: strawberry mascarpone mousse, an initially-questionable savory waffle infused with scrambled eggs and cheese (served with maple syrup), and a surprise belated birthday serenade complete with a sparkler candle on top of a strawberry.
Wildlife, wonderlands, a weird-sounding waffle, a wounded windshield, and two “missing” peanut butter cookies currently under investigation by the Williams P.D. – what a weekend!