My inaugural visit to Stockholm was in 2005 — my first overseas solo trip. I did a whirlwind hop through Denmark, Norway (up above the Arctic Circle to Bodø for about 24 hours), and Sweden. I even managed to sneak in a few days in London (had to pick up some authentic Cadbury’s – priorities).
The whole trip was wonderful, and I met a couple of locals I’m still friendly with, but I was mesmerized by the so-called “Venice of the North.” (Which is funny because in my last post I wrote about being in Aveiro – aka the Venice of Portugal. Maybe Venice is just the Stockholm of Italy?)
Since then, I’ve returned to this historical, photogenic city several times — and it called me back again.
This round, I decided it was high time I explored the famed Archipelago (literally “a group of islands,” but that sounds less elegant) – which made sense in a place also known as the “City of Islands.”
But first – to kick off the trip, I spent a couple days reacquainting myself with my old friend. While there’s plenty of public transit, Stockholm’s walkability and abundance of green spaces make it a dream for wandering. If you haven’t been, here are a few ways to ease into some of the specialness:
Ready for Royalty?
Stroll past one of several palaces or explore Riddarholmen Church, dating back to the 1300s and housing the tombs of Swedish kings. It’s part history lesson, part gothic Instagram backdrop.
Crazy for Cobblestones?
Gamla Stan (Old Town) is a must-see. Wander through winding streets past medieval buildings, browse for souvenirs (including plush mooses – with so many to choose from, it feels right to pluralize that word!) and pop into one of the many gelato shops along the way. You’ll be surrounded by lots of charm.
Seeking Out Shopping?
You’ll find all the usual high-end suspects, but Stockholm also knows how to surprise. Quirky shopping centers like Mood and a sprinkling of independent boutiques mean you’re never far from a gem. But if you only hit one spot? NK (Nordiska Kompaniet). Founded in 1902 and visited by millions each year, this Art Nouveau wonder is part department store, part experience. Think gourmet food halls, pampering perks and Swedish fashion that’s both classic and cool.
Now, onto my Archipelago adventure…
After lots of research (and polling the pros in TripAdvisor forums – an underrated goldmine), I landed on two destinations.
First up: Vaxholm, just a quick boat ride away. It’s cute and close, and though I didn’t find loads to do, it made for a peaceful Sunday wander. I explored the harbor, peeked at wooden homes and enjoyed the seaside calm.
A few days later, I went from near to far: Sandhamn, about 2.5 hours across the sea. I booked with Stromma (highly reco’d to do it in advance), and thankfully was able to shift my reservation when the weather flipped from rain to sunshine. My hotel kindly helped reschedule, but it seems doable solo as well.
On the outbound ride, I asked to sit with three women at a table, and we were soon joined by two others. So began fascinating boat conversations with a well-traveled American-living-abroad, her two Swiss friends and a couple from Gothenburg (the wife had fled the Yugoslav Wars in the ‘90s). Interacting with people of such different backgrounds is one reason I love to travel.
When we docked, I made a beeline for the beach — or at least tried to. I’d asked a friendly local for directions but forgot whether to turn before or after the tennis courts. I guessed “after,” following a group ahead.
A few minutes later, a biker passed me — and wouldn’t you know it, it was the same woman from earlier. She pulled over, smiling, and gently let me know I’d missed the path. She then got off her bike and walked with me to the right spot, chatting the whole way. Incredibly nice.
After lounging in the sun, poking into shops, and ordering what I thought was a sandwich (turned out to be a pizza — surprise!), I waited for the return boat… and heard my name being called, I was reunited with the American and her crew from earlier. We swapped stories all the way back to Stockholm.
A couple other highlights:
- The ABBA Museum – If you’re a diehard fan, you’ll probably love it. If not, you’ll still find a few gems — like seeing their old costumes, hearing the music (which is undeniably fun), and learning about their childhoods.
- Östermalm’s Saluhall — This historic food hall opened in 1888 – it’s full of beautiful stalls selling everything from baked goods and cheese to fresh seafood and traditional Swedish fare.
To wrap up my trip, I stayed a few nights at Hotel Rival, my longtime favorite in Södermalm (a vibrant neighborhood just beyond the Old Town). The hotel staff made me feel extremely welcome and – while my rooms have always been great – an unexpected upgrade had me in a sweet suite on the top floor with a huge terrace featuring amazing views.
Speaking of views, a short distance from the hotel (but up quite a lot of stairs), leads into a less well-known sightseeing spot: Söder Mälarstrand, a 2.2 km promenade with looking out on the cityscape and waterways. Snag a bench and soak it in.
And thanks to the late Scandinavian sunset, I was able to take in sights late into the evening from my suite’s terrace, or even early morning – I took these photos around 2:20 a.m. as the sun started to wake.
Quick shoutout to O’Pizzicato, a family-run spot with delicious seafood pasta (don’t be fooled by the name – no pizza on the premises). I ate there twice, which says a lot.
And finally, a tribute to my Stockholm souvenir. A not-so-traditionally-colored moose who caught my eye in a Gamla Stan shop window. One look at that cute face and it was settled, he was trading pine trees for cacti – I probably should’ve mentioned the wildlife importation when I went through customs…
Stockholm: Come for the scenery and history, leave with memories full of views, vibes, northern daylight — and a possibly-smuggled moose.
All the blue (sky, water) takes my breath away. Gorgeous!
Stunning, yes!